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Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

Perly – a necklace of freshwater pearls. Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia
An integral part of the culture of our ancestors, Russian folk costume has preserved to us through the centuries. In fact, the folk costume determined social class of a person, and therefore, had special importance. In Russia, traditional jewellery was pearl, produced in kidney-shaped shells, and mined in northern rivers. Noteworthy, its size ranged from small grains to peas diameter 10-14 mm. From freshwater pearls made earrings and necklaces, it adorned hats and clothing. For example, during great festivals in Zadonsk and Zemlyansky districts of Voronezh region, women used to wear lots of pearl necklaces, and width of rods could be up to ten of these threads. Pearls in large quantities preserved in folk costume until the beginning of XX century.

Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia. Kolodochka

Kolodochka, traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

Kolodochka (tow) – tightly-woven beads or chain that simulates body of a snake. Widespread in Kaluga, Ryazan and Tula, as an ornament for girls and young women. And Lariat (coil, snake) – this is the long version, served as beads, or a belt.

Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

Gaitan

Gaitan (Gerdan, Ethan, Gita, koroleska, pochepka, chapochka) – breast, sometimes back decoration, made first of twisted metal rings, like a chain with a cross or an icon, then added artful weaving out of beads or threads. Now, Gaitana are long (up to waist), width of 10 cm, a strip of beads. The two ends are connected with glass beads suspension with ornament – a medallion beaded tassels, in ancient times with “vstavaranka” (bones from the chicken wing).

Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

Butterflies

Butterflies is a metal rod with two blades, delicate, braided with pearls in the form of a butterfly’s wings, strung on horsehair or thin wire and attached to the bottom of the teardrop pendants or bell. Metal base made ​​mostly of brass – an alloy of copper and zinc and other elements, the shackle made ​​of silver. The shape of pearl earrings formed by the end of XVIII century. In the XIX century, became a substitute for natural pearls, pearl beads, and glass beads.

Odintsy, dvoychatki, Triad

Odintsy, dvoychatki, Triad (from the words – one, two, three)

Odintsy, dvoychatki, Triad – came about the XV century, hanging earrings with 1, 2 or 3 rods with carnelian, bone, mother of pearl beads or cylinders, beads, pearls. Were common in Kaluga, the northern and central parts of European Russia.

Pyasy

Pyasy

Pyasy – approximately XIV, massive suspension on the Shvenzy ring with bells at the bottom. Shvenzy ring was attached to the tapes or headgear, or fastened to the ear. Later, they were made of beads.

temple rings

Temple rings used in the 13th century, found in Vyatichi Burials, Moscow region. Made of Bronze, silver or gold. Women’s jewelry woven into the hair at the temples

Known since the Bronze Age, but in the 13th century, began to withdraw from circulation. The shape of the rings can identify tribe to which they belonged, and the owner or the area in which she lived (the union of tribes).

Traditional jewelry in ancient Russia

temple rings

Seven-bladed rings (IX-XII century), which were typical of Vyatichi

Traditional jewelry of ancient Rus

Traditional jewelry of ancient Rus

Kolt (Koltushi, koltki) – alloy suspension of gold or silver ribbon at the temporal part of the headdress, replacing earrings, and served as amulets.

Kolt (Koltushi, koltki) – alloy suspension of gold or silver ribbon at the temporal part of the headdress, replacing earrings, and served as amulets

Hryvnia – cervical ring

Hryvnia – cervical ring

Hryvnia

Necklace. Gold plate, decorated with carving, common in Kievan Rus. Often not fastened and clamped around neck

Koltushi decorated with images of birds

Round Koltushi decorated with images of birds, mythological Sirin, tree of life, and later christian motifs

Kolodochka - tightly-woven collar of beads or chain in the snake shape.

Kolodochka – tightly-woven collar of beads or chain in the snake shape

Kolodochka, simulates a snake body

Kolodochka, simulates a snake body

Gribatka – like Gaitan, only strips of beads or chains are divided with ornament

Gribatka – like Gaitan, only strips of beads or chains are divided with ornament, like the main medallion on flat stretches

Gribatka

Varieties of Gribatka

Gribatka

Gribatka

Gaitan

Breast or back decoration Gaitan

breast, sometimes back decoration, made first of twisted metal rings, like a chain with a cross or an icon, then added artful weaving out of beads or threads

Gaitan

breast, sometimes back decoration

Ancient Slavs decoration – Gaitan

Butterflies - delicate, braided with pearls in the form of a butterfly’s wings

Braided with pearls, butterflies

Butterflies

Butterflies

Golubtsy

Golubtsy

Golubtsy - massive earrings resembled the silhouette stylized figures of one or two doves facing each other’s backs.

Golubtsy (from the word Pigeons), eagles, XVI-XVII century – massive earrings resembled the silhouette stylized figures of one or two birds facing each other backs

dvoychatki (from the word "dva", which is "two" in English)

Dvoychatki (from the word “dva”, or “two” in English)

Dvoychatki

Dvoychatki

hanging earrings with 1, 2 or 3 rods with carnelian, bone, mother of pearl beads or cylinders, beads, pearls.

Hanging earrings with 1, 2 or 3 rods with carnelian, bone, mother of pearl beads or cylinders, beads, and pearls

hanging earrings with carnelian, bone, beads, pearls.

earrings with carnelian, bone, beads, and pearls

Pyasy – approximately XIV, massive suspension on the Shvenzy ring with bells at the bottom.

Pyasy – XIV massive suspension on the Shvenzy ring with bells at the bottom

Pyasy - massive suspension on the Shvenzy ring with bells at the bottom.

Pyasy – massive suspension on the Shvenzy ring with bells at the bottom

Manistee

Necklace (Manistee, necklaces) – layered necklaces, pendants, sometimes with coin

Lenka - richly embroidered fabric collar

Lenka (Wade, neck tape, ozherelok, zharelok, podzherelok, podgorlok) – richly embroidered fabric collar

Naborushnik (Mantle, glunets) – circular decoration, front decorated with embroidery, gold or silver thread, gold thread, colored foil stripes, pearls or beads.

Naborushnik (Mantle, glunets) – circular decoration, front decorated with embroidery, gold or silver thread, gold thread, colored foil stripes, pearls or beads

Naborushnik

Naborushnik

Shvenzy rings were attached to the tapes or headgear, or fastened to the ear.

Shvenzy rings attached to the tapes or headgear, or fastened to the ear

Temple rings shapes

Temple rings shapes

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